CaribSeek Kaleidoscope | Belize - The Deep South by Mark Webster

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Belize.......where is that again? Oh yes, the Caribbean, isn't it part of South America? Yes of course, the Blue Hole, didn't Jaques Cousteau blow that up? Surprisingly, very few divers know that Belize was once a British protectorate and has the second longest barrier reef in the world. Mention the Blue Hole and divers of a certain age will recall watching the Calypso's aquanauts and the 'Sea Flea' minisubs exploring this impressive collapsed sink hole but remain unaware of the amazing variety of diving to be found elsewhere on the barrier reef.

Belize is part of the Central American isthmus and borders with Mexico in the north and Honduras and Guatemala in the south and so, not surprisingly, is popular with American diving tourists. The barrier reef follows the coast of Belize over its entire length from the Mexican border for more than 180 miles to the Bay of Honduras. However, much of the development and activity is centered in the northern sector of the reef and on the three atolls further offshore to the east. Some of the diving here is excellent and would certainly compete with the best in the Caribbean basin, but if you are looking for something a little more relaxed and perhaps the chance to dive almost virgin sites, then study the map in the south of the region and find the town of Placencia.

Placencia is nestled at the end of a narrow peninsula that runs parallel to the coastline some 70 miles from Belize City. As the crow flies Placencia is not far from Belize City, but driving here takes time due to the routing and condition of some of the roads, so the best way is by air taxi which takes around 40 minutes. This short flight delivers you to a totally different experience compared to the frantic pace of Belize City and promises an even more laid back approach to life than that offered by the popular diving hub on Ambergris Caye at the northern end of the reef. This southern region was first discovered by hippies and backpackers and is still very popular with travellers who are on a tight budget. Consequently the accommodation on offer ranges from full service resorts just outside the town and a host of small hotels, guest houses and hostels all of which are on the edge of a perfect tropical beach which runs the full length of the peninsula. The town also lays claim to the narrowest main street in the world (Guinness Book of Records) which is more of a pavement winding its way between numerous palm trees, small bars, restaurants and gift shops only yards from the beach.

As the coastline runs south from Placencia it starts to sweep westward and diverges from the barrier reef. In the north of the country the reef table is relatively narrow and the reef is close to the shore and cayes. Here in the south the table is much broader and there are large expanses of coral reef within the lagoon area with deep interconnecting channels which rise sharply to the numerous shoals and cayes between the mainland and barrier reef itself. So diving in this area gives you the choice of the barrier reef with its dramatic walls and pelagics and the relative calm of the reefs within the protection of this lagoon. Although many of the cayes here have their own 'house reefs' the most varied and unique development is the reef structure around Laughing Bird Caye.

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Diving & Snorkeling Belize

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